The plastic Tupperware transparent cube with wheels provided by the Ajaccio city of Corsica took us from the airport navette to center of town. This was a free bus service although “bus” is a big word as it only measured 1 meter wide with space for only four people and a maximum of 2 suitcases.
A welcome break after 4 years of holiday abstinence, we were greeted by 29° sea breezes, boulevards lined with palm trees, garden squares, beaches and panorama sea views from every point of the city, cloudless skies, waving palm trees and wonderful sunshine.
Nathalie our designer artist friend who’s loft we stayed at in the center of town overlooks the vieux port. 5 flights of stairs and no lift but the climb was well worth it.
Napoleon’s birthplace, a large and simple residence, is omnipresent with a museum devoted to the Bonaparte family in Corsica. “La maison de Napoleon” museum, Boulevards, Hotel de Ville and the fabulous historical library are named after him.
Nathalie’s loft is totally modern with a spacious open plan and mezzanine where she works as an artist. Her collages, sculptures and paintings line the walls but what struck home was the vitality and vigour provided by colour in her flat.
Walls were painted in primary colours - one blue, one yellow, red, green, and some pink fuchsia skirting and banister rails. This theme follows throughout the apartment. Siemens kitchen in red and black resin surfaces, a large fridge would have taken up unnecessary space so she has two smaller fridges and a freezer under the bar which divides the cooking area. Oven, microwave and induction cooker where everything is orderly with each drawer organised by types of utensils; What a pleasure to shop in the daily market downstairs and prepare a meal in this kitchen. Tolix alternate with plexiglass transparent chairs sit under the black resin round table in the dining area.
Living space is white and black with a woven carpet and curved plexiglass coffee table and piles of expensive magazines held together by belts to provide extra poofs. A collage made of cardboard with the words (“cache misère) for the television - a great idea. Out of all the artworks the most exciting and worth copying (sorry Nathalie but I just might have to) is her world map measuring 1,50 m x 0,70 cm. This is a colour map of the world with each country painstakingly outlined and then the shape cut out in different patterns and designer wallpapers. Each country distinctly stands out by its choice of paper motifs and shade. Even the smallest country has been minutely traced, cut out and pasted on top of the country shape. So for example Ireland has a green flowery design and the UK brown stripes - you get the idea.
The overall effect is mesmerising and to reproduce would occupy many a winters evening.
On her last visit to dinner with us in Burgundy JM had given her some deer skulls - these she has skilfully covered with wool knit, ribbons, fabrics and buttons, displayed as sculptures and would fit into any international art gallery. Her steel S shaped bookcase stands out on the wall, piled high with philosophically intellectual books most of which I couldn’t even attempt to understand the title let alone read the actual book.
She has made a see through wall hanging separating the spiral staircase leading to the mezzanine and the kitchen area Plastic place mats in the said colours - each mat is hung together by metal hooks in the shape of a staple at each corner and delicately and transparently divides the kitchen area from the spiral staircase the mezzanine and other bedroom. Measuring at least 4 meters from ceiling to floor light and sunshine filter through producing a rainbow of luminescence.
Out on the terrace a bright yellow table greeted us with matching cushions; pink fuchsia deckchair and mediterrean plants which we dutifully watered every 2nd evening.
We shared breakfast with a screeching seagull and it’s baby squawking and constantly begging for food. This distracted us from watching the comings and goings of the port; Ferries from the Continent, cruise ships 300 meters long spewing out Germans, Scandinavian and American tourists who shopped, ate and awed this beautiful capital of Corsica.
There is so much to describe about the beaches, restaurants, food, people and shopping that will have to be written at another time as the day progresses as washing, ironing, filling the fridge, and generally getting the house back in order awaits me, but I'll be back and until now .....Au revoir la Corse je reviendrai.
Back to a figue flan for lunch.
